Salt’s Out: Spicy Substitutes for High-Sodium Airfare

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Image via The Greek Food

APEX Insight: For the third and final part of our in-flight food trend series, we consider the growing prominence of herbs and spices in aerial gastronomy. Airline chefs previously resorted to salt and artificial additives to compensate for the dullness of taste receptors at 35,000 feet off the ground but, as low-sodium diets spread on terra firma, airlines are being forced to reconsider their course of action. Luckily, spices and herbs can be used to create intricate taste experiences that can be enjoyed no matter how high above sea level.

Studies have found that taste and sense of smell are dramatically altered at 35,000 feet off the ground. Due to low cabin pressure, perceptions of food and drink mimic those experienced when sick, with salt and sugar registering at 30 percent less intense in flight. This, combined with the fact that low humidity makes it more difficult to smell, causes in-air cuisine to taste awfully bland.

Many airline chefs have had to resort to adding large amounts of salt, sugar and full-fat cream – often nearly 20% more then would be used in on-the-ground recipes – to offset these unfavourable conditions of consumption. With the rate of sodium intake reaching record highs in the US (the average American takes in about 3,400 mg of sodium per day) and medical research revealing that a sodium rich diet can lead to high blood pressure and increase the risk of cardiovascular disease, it is no surprise that airlines are beginning to rethink their source of flavour.

A Fork in the Road

Recent partnerships with Michelin star chefs, a deeper understanding of the aircraft environment’s impact on taste and the overall increase in health consciousness in consumer trends have contributed to the recalibration of the salt to spice ratio on board. Spices and herbs can be used to create more intricate taste experiences in air, lessening the use of salt and artificial additives. It is for this reason that, at last month’s World Travel Catering & Onboard Services Expo (WTCE), Intertaste, an 80-year-old spice and herb company that services airline catering companies, held an interactive session and comparative tasting centered on the premise that herbs and spices could improve palate better than salt and other additives.

Munchy Seeds
Munchy Seeds in “Chilli Bites” flavor. Image via Munchy Seeds

Savouring Spice in Flight

Let’s consider the proverbial airplane snack: salty peanuts. Indeed, these sodium-rich treats are still making the rounds, but healthier alternatives are starting to get some airtime. JetBlue Airways offers passengers crunchy roasted fava beans, which are not only teeming with protein and antioxidants, but also delicious, since roasting can bring out the natural umami in some ingredients. Known as the “fifth taste” after sweet, salty, bitter and sour, umami (aka savoury) can be enjoyed by airline passengers at the same level of intensity as when earth-bound. Last month’s WTCE also showcased another snack option to airline officials: Munchy Seeds. The company’s “Chilli Bites” flavour in particular, which consists of roasted sunflower and pumpkin seeds with a punchy chilli kick, makes for a spicy stand-in to the peanuts of yore.

Some airlines are ahead of the curve, having already conducted large-scale overhauls of their culinary offerings. Air Canada’s Nutri-Cuisine program, for instance, offers low-calorie options that abide by the “Food With a Conscience” guidelines, which include the reduction of salt content and the elimination of unnecessary additives. Meanwhile, British Airways stocks its World Traveler, first-class, and Height Cuisine menus with dishes that are chockfull of herbs, spices and umami. Meal options include sustainably sourced North Atlantic baked cod with orange and tarragon butter sauce and chervil creamed potatoes, and warm seared tiger prawns on a sesame and fresh shredded vegetable salad with basil and ginger dressing.

BA's warm seared tiger prawns
BA’s warm seared tiger prawns on a sesame and fresh shredded vegetable salad with basil and ginger dressing. Image: Jermyn via FlyerTalk

As North American airlines actively try to substitute salt content with spice, Middle Eastern and Asian airlines find themselves at an advantage. Unlike American airlines, which are introducing international and multicultural food programs to bring healthy, low-sodium options on board, Middle Eastern and Asian airlines are already equipped with the tools (and the menus) needed to layer spices and herbs to achieve appetizing dishes without the unhealthy additives. Think black cod with ginger, spring onion and brown rice on Thai Airways, or vegetable curry with rajma masala and steamed basmati rice on Etihad Airways. Whether munching on spiced seeds from an in-flight snack box or feasting on an herb-infused culinary masterpiece, passengers are likely to consume less sodium and more spice in flight today than they have in the past.